Welding is one of those skills that sits at the crossroads of utility and art. Whether you’re patching a trailer, fabricating a bracket, building a go-kart, or dreaming of someday laying down stack-of-dimes beads on roll cages, welding gives you the power to take raw metal and make it something functional—or beautiful. But if you’re just getting started, the world of welding can feel overwhelming. There are a lot of processes, a lot of gear, and a lot of lingo. So let’s break it down.

This guide will cover the three core welding methods—MIG, TIG, and Stick. Each one has its strengths, weaknesses, and particular applications. After that, we’ll take a look at plasma cutting as a modern, evolving bonus tool that’s quickly become more affordable. Then, we’ll tie it all together and discuss how to get started. Because trust me—once you strike your first arc, you won’t want to stop.

Understanding Welding

At its core, welding is about heat and metal. You’re taking two pieces of metal and melting them at the edges until they fuse into one. Depending on the method, you may also use a filler material or shielding gas to protect the weld from contamination. Each of the big three—MIG, TIG, and Stick—approaches this a little differently. Which one is best for you depends on your goals, your budget, and your patience.

MIG:

MIG welding stands for Metal Inert Gas, though the more technical name is Gas Metal Arc Welding (GMAW). MIG is one of the easiest welding methods to learn because it’s semi-automatic. You pull the trigger on your MIG gun, and the machine feeds wire through the tip while simultaneously delivering shielding gas to keep the weld clean. This makes it ideal for beginners and production work alike.

The wire acts as both the electrode and the filler, melting into the weld pool as you work your way down a joint. Its MIG is fast, efficient, and relatively forgiving of clean material. With the right setup, it’s excellent for mild steel, stainless steel, and even aluminum.

What you’ll need for MIG welding includes a machine that can feed wire, a gas cylinder (usually argon or a mix), and spools of wire matched to your material type and thickness. You’ll also want to ensure your work area is well-ventilated and your material is clean. MIG welding really doesn’t like rust, paint, or oil.

MIG is great in a shop environment. It’s fantastic for automotive bodywork, general fabrication, and home repair. But it’s not the best if you’re working outside or on dirty, corroded material. The gas shield can be blown away by wind, and if you’re not careful, you’ll end up with contaminated, porous welds.

TIG:

TIG welding—short for Tungsten Inert Gas or technically Gas Tungsten Arc Welding (GTAW)—is the surgical scalpel of the welding world. Instead of feeding the wire through a gun like MIG, you use a tungsten electrode to create an arc and a separate filler rod that you feed manually. You control everything with your hands and (ideally) a foot pedal to manage amperage.

TIG is incredibly precise. It’s the method of choice for aerospace, high-performance automotive, bicycle frames, and anything where appearance and accuracy matter. The welds are clean and strong, with very little spatter or cleanup afterward.

But that precision comes with a learning curve. TIG welding is hard. You’re managing heat, electrode angle, filler rod, and foot control simultaneously. If you’re brand new, it’s not impossible to learn—but you’ll need patience. It also demands immaculately clean material. TIG doesn’t play nice with dirt, rust, or oil.

You’ll need a TIG-capable machine, a gas bottle (typically 100% argon), a tungsten electrode, filler rods, and, ideally, a foot pedal for fine control. A good TIG setup can be expensive, especially compared to Stick welding, but it’s worth the investment if you’re focused on stainless, chromoly, or aluminum.

Stick:

Now let’s talk about Stick welding—or Shielded Metal Arc Welding (SMAW). If you’re on a budget or you just want to learn a method that can handle anything, anywhere, this is it.

Stick welding doesn’t require shielding gas because the electrode itself is coated in flux. As the arc strikes and the rod melts, the flux turns into a shielding gas cloud and then slag, which protects the weld from contamination. This makes Stick ideal for outdoor work, dirty metal, rusty pipe, farm equipment—you name it.

The entry cost is low. Stick welders are some of the most affordable machines out there, and they’re incredibly durable. You don’t need gas bottles or wire feeders. You’ll need a machine, a ground clamp, some leads, and a handful of welding rods. That’s about it.

Stick welding is more difficult to learn, especially when it comes to controlling arc length and preventing the rod from sticking. But the beauty of it is this: once you learn Stick, everything else becomes easier. If you can strike and run a good bead with a 7018 on a Stick welder, MIG will feel like cheating. TIG will feel more manageable. Stick builds fundamentals.

It also builds grit. Stick is loud, hot, and often messy—but the payoff is real. You can weld anywhere with it. On a windy day, on rusty steel, on a gate out in the middle of a field. It’s the do-it-all process.

The Plasma Cutter

Before we wrap, let’s touch on plasma cutters. Technically, they are not welding tools but are essential for welding work. A plasma cutter uses compressed air and electrical current to slice through metal easily, like a hot knife through butter.

Years ago, plasma cutters were cost-prohibitive for the average garage or small shop. But that’s changed. Today’s market includes a growing number of affordable models that can handle everything from sheet metal to thick plate.

The beauty of plasma is its speed and precision. You can shape and prep your material with minimal cleanup with a good cutter. Compared to abrasive cutoff wheels or oxy-acetylene torches, plasma is cleaner, faster, and cooler to operate. It’s an excellent tool for anyone serious about fabrication, even at the hobby level.

Honorable Mention: Brazing

While not technically welding, brazing earns an honorable mention because it’s another effective, accessible way to join metals—and a method worth understanding if you’re getting into metalwork. Brazing is often confused with welding, but the key difference lies in the heat and the process.

Where welding melts the base metals to fuse them, brazing uses a filler metal with a lower melting point than the joined materials. You heat the base metals to a temperature typically above 840°F and then flow the molten filler into the joint by capillary action. Once it cools and hardens, it forms a strong bond.

This method is common in HVAC, bicycle frame building, and smaller fabrication tasks where precision and clean joints matter. It can be done with a torch and some relatively inexpensive gear, making it an appealing method for tinkerers or anyone working with thin-walled tubing, brass, or copper.

Brazing doesn’t require the high amperage or shielding gases that welding does. It also creates less heat distortion in the workpiece, which is important if you’re working on delicate parts. The downside? It’s not typically as strong as a proper weld and doesn’t fare as well in structural applications under heavy load.

Still, for clean joints, aesthetic finishes, and ease of use—especially on small parts—brazing is a fantastic skill to learn and another tool for your fabrication toolkit.

Getting Started

Here’s the truth: it doesn’t matter which method you choose if you never light the torch. The best way to get started in welding is to buy a running rig—something simple that works—then grab some steel and start burning rod or wire. That’s it.

Stick welding is still my recommendation for beginners. It’s cheap, it’s durable, and it teaches you the fundamentals. You’ll get a sense for arc control, puddle watching, and rod manipulation. With the right electrode and amperage, Stick can weld nearly anything. It’s a skill multiplier.

But no matter what path you take, just start. Call your local community college—many offerquick-start welding programs that are affordable and hands-on. Some even come with gear discounts through reputable manufacturers, soyou can walk out with real-world experience and your own tools.

Modern welding tech has come a long way. The tech floor is much higher than it used to be. Even budget machines from trusted brands can turn out clean, functional welds. If you understand the basics and take your time, you’ll find that even the less expensive tools can carry you a long way.

Safety and Memes

That said—be safe. Keep a bucket of water nearby, a soaked rag, and a fire extinguisher within reach. Fires can happen quickly, especially with sparks and slag flying. You can’t see everything clearly through a welding hood. And never underestimate fumes—turn on a big box fan and keep that air moving. The gases from burning flux and certain metals are toxic. Respect the workspace, and you’ll be just fine.

Don’t forget the bucket of one-liners that you’ll need for your mental tool box too… 

“Grinder and paint makes me the welder I ain’t.”

Probably the most famous one. It’s the unofficial motto of backyard fabbers everywhere. If it looks good after cleanup, it counts.

“If it’s stupid but it works, it ain’t stupid.”

Spoken by every fabricator who’s had to tack together a sketchy jig just to finish the job.

“Stacking dimes or sewing time?”

A fun way to call out whether that bead is pro-level or needs another pass. Stacking dimes = good. Sewing time = not so much.

“If the sparks ain’t flyin’, you ain’t tryin’.”

Usually heard when someone’s running a little cold or hesitating to commit.

“Hot metal solves cold problems.”

Great one for when brute force isn’t cutting it and the torch comes out.

“Arc first, ask questions later.”

Not necessarily the safest, but definitely common in scrappy learning environments.

“Tighten it ’til it breaks, then back off a quarter turn.”

Works for bolts, attitudes, and some very questionable welding practices.

“It ain’t pretty, but it’s stuck.”

Sometimes a strong, ugly weld beats a pretty, weak one.

“When in doubt, burn it out.”

Usually means crank the amps and push through, for better or worse.

Final Slag

Welding isn’t just about joining metal. It’s about learning to manipulate heat, material, and time into something solid. MIG is fast and forgiving. TIG is refined and precise. Stick is rough, reliable, and rewarding.

Plasma cutters are a modern bonus, making your metalwork easier and cleaner.

Start where your budget and interests align, but remember—Stick welding might be the rough road, but it’s the one that’ll teach you the most. Once you get the hang of it, you’ll understand every other process with a deeper foundation. Buy some steel, spark up, and go build something.

Weld Safe.