Cut it Close -Shave with a Straight Razor

For most men, the first thought that comes to mind when you say straight razor is a hardened street thug or flashes of a Sweeny Todd storyline and its grizzly scenes. Even with this disturbing imagery, men around the country are flocking to sharp steel more and more regularly. The driving force behind this new wave is a close and smooth shave. A phrase rings true in this realm: sometimes, the old ways are the best ways. For those men looking to go beyond a quick and occasionally questionable shave, the world of straight razors may be for you. In short, the world of the gentleman and the lifestyle that goes with it has seen a resurgence. Men are ditching plastic face scrapers and embracing the straight razor as an elegant replacement. You must learn to shave with a straight-edge razor if it is not in your skillset yet.

Cut it Close – Shaving with a Straight Razor

However, a few things to know before you start slinging the blade. Things that will keep you from bleeding out on the counter as you try to shave. Straight razors are more than just a glorified knife. It is simply a work of art. Some of the most accomplished razor makers in the world produce blades that will last lifetimes and become family heirlooms if maintained correctly. You may be tempted to find an inexpensive razor on many sites, but you will be well served to stick with a high-quality steel razor.

Cost mostly dictates the quality of the product because well-tempered steel takes more time and money to produce. A well-tempered blade will make a distinct “ting” if you catch the point of the blade under your thumbnail and let it slip off quickly. A dull sound or no sound is a sign that the blade is likely not tempered well and will not hold the edge you need for a long-term good shave experience. While looks may drive part of your purchase, I encourage you to stay with a blade in the 5/8” size. It is simply easier to use and handle.

Beginning Steps

While I encourage you to take a shaving lesson for straight razors in person, I will offer you a few tips to get you started and help keep you from slicing an artery.

Try shaving in the shower. This allows you to keep your face in a warm, moist area, improving your shave.
Wash your face with warm to hot water to help soften the beard. If you have time, use a hot, moist towel on your face before shaving.
Get a comfortable grip on the razor. While there are many ways to grip it, one of the most effective is to place your first three fingers on the back of the blade, your pinkie on the tang, and your thumb on the side of the blade near the middle. This position will allow you to shave most of your face.
Go slow and with the grain. Use slow, even strokes in the direction of the beard growth. The blade should be seated at about a 30-degree angle.
Do one side at a time. Use your free hand to draw your skin up or down in the shaving area. Do your cheeks first and then move under your jaw. Once again, remember to go with the grain.
Do it again. A second pass is necessary if you want the super deluxe shave. Wash your face and lather up once again, following the same pattern. After you become skilled at controlling the razor, you can add a pass going across the grain as well. Get some time on the blade before you try this, though.
Finish up. Once you are satisfied, rinse your face with cool water. This closes the pores and will help keep your skin healthy. Use a quality aftershave. While the manly aroma is important, the real truth is that it helps reduce skin irritation and helps the skin look good.

Easier Than You Think

Shaving with a razor-sharp piece of steel is just damn manly. In the age of softer and easier straight razors, shaving too many is the tip of the hat to stronger times. Shaving, to many, is almost ritualistic and meditative. It is not done quickly unless you have a case of band-aids handy. It’s time to embrace the old ways and get a shave you must experience to appreciate.